Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Toilette review

          When I was but a sapling, my family and I lived in the heat of California's San Joaquin valley. Known for its fertile soil and bountiful sun, the valley is home to thousands of acres of fig trees, with their gnarled, twisting branches reaching upwards and outwards like giant parasols shading the valley floor. Historically, the trees were brought to California and planted in small numbers by settlers during the gold rush. With the introduction of caprification (a method of artificially pollinating fig trees) in the late 1890s, the fig industry in California exploded! Today the overwhelming majority of US-grown figs originate from the San Joaquin valley. The trees thrive in the dry 104 degree summers, perfectly adapted to the heated climates that supported ancient civilizations.

         Though I've since moved from the fig center of the United States, cartons of fresh figs are always on my grocery list when in season. However, I realize that in modern times, many have never experienced the cool pleasure of a fresh fig. While the readily available Fig Newtons do have their own classically delicious charm, the real experience is quite different. Herein lies the beauty of Diptyque Philosykos; it is a perfume that evokes the fruit of Ficus carica as enjoyed by the ancients, for the pleasure of the modern day palate!

Mr. Lovey spotted this little fig tree on our recent trip to the beautiful Chicago Botanic Garden!

          The story of Diptyque Philosykos is that of the cool, milky fig amidst an airy rustle of leaves and the slight warmth of dry wood. The scent opens with the exhalation of a light green curtain of leaves shielding our moist fig from the scorching sun. Fig is absolutely central to Philosykos; its green, earthy, and milky tones are all beautifully intertwined within the composition. One can even appreciate the nuttiness of the seeds that are an archetypal trait of the fruit. Coconut water adds just the right touch, adding the feel of delicate dusty skin that just a slip of a finger will crease. Over time, as the scent 'ripens', the fig dries down to a more fibrous green fragrance. It becomes slightly sweeter and more jammy (perhaps a la 'Newton). A soft dry wood buoys the base.

          I've noticed that some reviews have overemphasized a supposed sense of 'cool/moist soil/bark/earth' of a figurative fig grove in Diptyque Philosykos. Much to the contrary, I found Philosykos to be a remarkably fig  fruit-centric scent, with only a soft contribution from the tree itself. (Not to mention, the oft-described cool, damp forest is biologically incongruous with the hot, dry habitat of Ficus carica.) While the aforementioned scent signatures are present, the 'cool earthiness' of Philoskyos belongs to the fig fruit itself, not its arboreal mother!

         In Diptyque Philosykos, we experience a pendulous fig magically alight amongst broad leaves: a cool oasis sublimated by the efforts of a scorching sun. It's a simple delight that transcends time. One bite (or rather one spritz) of this sweet milky fruit transports me back to the sunbaked California valley of my childhood and even further, back across the timeless generations to cradle of life where figs were first savored by human lips.

       The beautifully crafted fragrance in Diptyque Philosykos is wonderful for fig aficionadas like myself, and also an intriguing scent to those yet unfamiliar with the unique flavor of the fig. As Philoskykos is among the more 'simple' delights in Diptyque's lineup, it's a great starting point for those looking to explore Diptyque perfumes!

       Thanks for reading! What Diptyque perfumes or products have you tried recently? Do you have any favorites? Have you ever tried fresh figs?

Love, Dovey.

P.S. For more of my Diptyque reviews, take a steamship voyage with Diptyque Volutes, roam the exotic jungles of Diptyque Eau Moheli, and take a break in a cool cafe with Diptyque Eau Duelle.

Kate Spade Live Colorfully Eau de Parfum review

         As a color fan-(atic), I'm oft delighted by Kate Spade's colorful creations. The brand has a way with color and imagery that just makes you smile. A few years ago, Kate Spade launched Twirl; I liked it so much that I picked up a rollerball of the perfume. Naturally, I couldn't wait to get my hands on Kate Spade Live Colorfully once it was released! 

          The bottle for Kate Spade Live Colorfully was inspired by the light refracting properties of prisms. From the front, it appears to be a bright coral. However, a turn of the flask reveals that there are actually two colored panes, one pink and one yellow, (bow)-tied together by glass. This colorful duality is not just pretty;  it also hints at the nature of the scent within (more on that below)!

Notes: Mandarin, Pink Water Lily, Star Anise, Tiare Flower, Golden Gardenia, Coconut Water, Sheer Musk, Amber, Vanilla

             Kate Spade Live Colorfully Eau de Parfum is a creamy white floral with hints of waterlily and coconut. Rich white florals open the scent; it's easy to pick out the distinct woody green character of gardenia combined with the dulcet and mellifluous tones of its Polynesian relative, the tiare flower. (I love how the scent of tiare practically transports me to the Pacific islands!) After the grand whites decrescendo, a pretty little stanza follows : a soft and sweet mandarin perfumes the air, followed by the aquatic green fragrance of a water lily. It's a segment that provides a delicate breather from the weightiness of the perfume. The white florals return a second time, and along with them comes coconut water, which at first has a cool dry texture, but becomes creamier over time as vanilla seeps in to fill it out. The final dry-down involves white florals, velvety coconut, and a hint of green waterlily. Live Colorfully is very long lasting.

         I found that Kate Spade Live Colorfully evoked not one, but two places, which was quite an unusual experience! The first was Tahiti, thanks to the heavy perfume of the tiare flower and coconut. In fact, the tiare and coconut oil combination is a classic fragrance pairing in Tahiti called Monoi. The coconut in Live Colorfully is a slight variation as it smells of the lighter coconut water rather than the creamier milk. The water theme in the coconut provides a lucid transition into a another watery, albeit very different environment. The aquatic green notes of the waterlily evokes the second location: a well shaded garden pond --- perhaps like Monet's garden at Giverny, France! (You can read more about Monet's Water Lilies in my recent Inspired by Art post!) This duality in Kate Spade Live Colorfully was fascinating --- it is both French countryside and French Polynesia in one bottle!

          Kate Spade Live Colorfully is a summery white floral with notes of velvety coconut and aquatic water lily. Like the bottle's bright yellow and pink panes that combine to create a cool coral, the scent is a unified duality as well. Through a common theme of water, our noses transport us to a lush island bathed in golden sunlight, as well as to the bright pink blooms of a waterlily pond draped with willows. The resultant combination is both colorful and cohesive.

          Overall, you could say I'm a big fan! I'll certainly be indulging in a few spritzes of Kate Spade Live Colorfully this summer. Thanks for reading! Have you tried Kate Spade Live Colorfully? What perfumes have you been enjoying this summer?

Love, Dovey.

P.S. For more on the art shown in this post, be sure to check out my Inspired by Art series featuring Monet's waterlilies and Gaugain's Tahiti.

Diptyque Eau Mohéli Eau de Toilette review

        Chicago is lucky to have one of only four Diptyque boutiques in the United States (two being in New York City on Bleecker St. and Madison Ave., and one on Maiden Lane in San Francisco). Chicago's boutique is nestled in Bucktown, which has a nice set of shops away from the hustle and bustle of North Michigan Avenue. Candles and perfumes packed in neat wooden displays decorate the cozy interior--- it's a bit more spare and streamlined than the glitzy Bleecker St. boutique, which I've also passed by. Recently, I stepped into the Chicago Diptyque boutique after seeing their brand new perfume, Diptyque Eau Mohéli, on display!

         Diptyque Eau Mohéli Eau de Toilette is an exotic floral perfume inspired by its namesake island. Moheli is part of a three island archipelago that makes up the nation Comoros, located off the east coast of Africa between Mozambique and Madagascar. The island is rich in flora; visitors can enjoy the striking fragrance of ylang-ylang, and admire a bevy of local orchid species and endemic palms. Moheli is also home to baobob trees and a number of pepper and vanilla plantations.

Notes: Floral notes, Ylang-ylang, patchouli, pink pepper, ginger, vetiver, benzoin, incense.

        Diptyque Eau Mohéli Eau de Toilette is an exotic floral perfume crafted around ylang-ylang. Woody benzoin opens the scent; it's spicy, but a bit watered down and not-so-acrid. Ginger root immediately follows (it's more dry peel-on ginger as opposed to fresh cut) and has a lasting presence throughout the scent. The root is laced with a generous helping of pink pepper that tickles the nose. These spices enhance the natural character of the warm ylang-ylang, which is joined by pretty florals that add a nice lucidity to the scent. In the second part of the fragrance, the root-like character of the perfume transfers from ginger over to vetiver. The green root-like smell has an odd warm freshness --- like a green mist exhaled by large jungle fronds under the burning sun. A light patchouli fits in seamlessly with the vetiver, adding a fuzzy focus and depth.The final dry-down features ginger, ylang-ylang, patchouli, pepper, and a leafy jungle green.

          The refreshing breath of hot fronds and pretty flowers combined with the warm medicinal feel of the roots and spice in Diptyque Eau Mohéli definitely channels the feel of an island jungle under the sun. The perfume is full but not heavy. I found that the heat of one's skin plays a significant role in the scent experience. On strips of fabric or cool skin, it's easier to appreciate the florals and lush green tones in Diptyque Eau Moheli. On warmer skin, the ginger and roots seem to predominate. If you're interested in Eau Moheli, I'd recommend trying the perfume on your skin first to see how it behaves.

          Diptyque Eau Mohéli is a spicy ylang-ylang perfume that really captures the imagination. It's an off-the-beaten path type of scent that channels the ylang-ylang flowers, pepper plantations, and warm green vegetation of its namesake island. I'd definitely recommend a sniff of Eau Moheli this summer --- you might be surprised where it takes you! Thanks for reading! Have you tried Diptyque Eau Moheli? Have you ever visited a Diptyque boutique? What was the last Diptyque perfume or candle you tried?

Love, Dovey.
P.S. For more Diptyque, be sure to check out my review of Diptyque Volutes!

Sephora Favorites : Bottled Dreams Fragrance Sampler For Her (2013) review + photos

          Years ago, when I was starting my journey into the world of perfume, I picked up a Sephora fragrance sampler for myself. Fragrance samplers typically contain several spritzers or deluxe minis for you to try and a voucher to redeem for a full-size version of your favorite. They're pretty great deals too; the kits often cost less than buying a full size bottle!

           With that in mind, you can imagine my delight at receiving Sephora Favorites : Bottled Dreams Fragrance Sampler For Her, their latest fragrance sampler, courtesy of Sephora. It's packed with deluxe mini samples of six new scents to choose from, as well as a bonus bottle of Sephora by OPI nail polish. I was quite pleased with the selection within; the perfumes should please many noses! I've written a brief review of each below to give you an idea of what to expect:

           Juicy Couture La La is a fun and flirty combination of crisp fruits and rich white florals. The fresh fruits include apple, mandarin, and redcurrant (a note I love). The whites include orange blossom and lily of the valley, which are perfect for spring. Balenciaga Florabotanica is an unusual green floral that smells of sweet mint and light rose. I'm quite a fan; I have a full bottle in my collection already. The scent surprisingly long lasting; the green is slightly earthy and hemp-like (as opposed to grass-like). Marchesa Parfum d'Extase is a delicate combination of iris and amber. This scent is soft and feminine; it's a good choice for those who prefer scents with a more understated elegance.





          Gucci Guilty (see my review here) is a sensual combination of peach, lilac, and pepper. It's a smooth, warm, and alluring scent. Lancôme La vie est belle (see my review here) is an iris gourmand. The combination of airy florals with a vanilla amber base is quite delicious and pleasantly complex. Coach Love is a smooth warm floral. The base notes, musk and patchouli, have more weight than some of the other fragrances here. The florals are a blend of jasmine, violet, and gardenia.

         The Sephora Favorites : Bottled Dreams Fragrance Sampler For Her includes a little booklet with promotional photos and a short blurb on each fragrance. As a bonus, the set comes with Sephora by OPI Nail Color in What Aura Gonna Wear?, which is a vibrant pink polish. I've made some comparison swatches below to give you a better idea of the color. (As you can see I'm quite fond of bright pinks!).

          The Sephora Favorites : Bottled Dreams Fragrance Sampler For Her ($50 for $125 value) is a cute coffret of perfumes that's a perfect gift for moms (after all, Mother's day is right around the corner) or for anyone interested in exploring perfume. This limited edition fragrance kit may fly off shelves - it has a selection of popular scents, a bonus nail polish, and a voucher for a full size bottle of perfume. As for me, I'm looking forward to figuring out which perfume I'll be redeeming my coupon for! (Right now I'm leaning towards Juicy Couture La La or Marchesa d'Extase).

          Thanks for reading! Have you ever tried a Sephora Fragrance sampler set? Which fragrance would you choose? Which one do you think I should choose?

Love, Dovey.
Disclosure: This post contains product(s) sent to Cute and Mundane for consideration. The ideas and opinions in this post are genuine and my own.  

Gucci Première Eau de Parfum review

          Gold is a quintessential icon of glamour and opulence. With the gold-themed Gucci Première Eau de Parfum, Gucci bottles the essence of a Hollywood 'Golden Girl'.  This is a new niche for the brand --- a sidestep away from their sensationalistic perfumes like 'Guilty' (reviewed here) and 'Envy Me'. In their pursuit of classical virtue over modern vice, Gucci created an elegant golden bottle and classy campaign for their new perfume. The ad campaign features an actress in a long golden gown dripping with sparkling sequins. Wait a second... have we seen this before?

          The Gucci Première campaign draws a number of parallels with the iconic Dior J'Adore campaign. In fact, I'd say the resemblance isn't a coincidence; Gucci is probably looking to take a bite out of Dior's market share! Given the striking  similarities however, it's interesting to enumerate the differences in imagery between the two campaigns. Dior J'Adore channels old world imagery (think Golden Fleece, not golden startlet) with its Greek style flacon and sepia-aged august aesthetic. Gucci Première's silvered skyline, on the other hand, conveys the vintage Hollywood glamour of the silver screen. The choice of models reflects this as well. Blake Lively is certainly younger and more 'new Hollywood' than veteran actress Charlize Theron, who has already been immortalized on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. All these points suggest that Dior J'Adore intends to evoke the 'old-world', while Gucci Première simply seeks out Hollywood's 'old-school'.

Notes: Bergamot, Orange Blossom, White Flowers, Musk, Leather, Wood

           Gucci Première Eau de Parfum is a citrus-y champagne floral with a leather and wood base. The fragrance opens with a burst of champagne, effervescing as if a bottle has just been uncorked. Bergamot adds a considerable zing, like the tingling of champagne bubbles.' (Somehow I feel as if there are some tea elements tied to the bergamot as well, but I digress). The orange blossom is present concurrently and adds to the sweet fruitiness of the champagne. After your glass of champagne 'runneth over', a white floral becomes apparent.The floral component is more like white petals, not whole blooms; it's definitely not as pervasive as white flowers can often be. The white petals provide a light, lucid perfume that almost becomes creamy; however, they're anchored by a plank of dry wood before getting that far. A leather grain (not suede) joins the mix and gets a little spicy as it matures. At the final dry down, everything becomes much lighter, and you can detect almost all the elements, including the citrus, floral, leather, and wood.

           Just like Blake Lively seems to be an 'down-to-earth' startlet, Gucci Première Eau de Parfum is a very approachable scent. The perfume has a lightness and lightheartedness that speaks more to everyday glamour than to a literal red carpet premiere. The lightness may be a downside for some; I've read complaints that the scent disappears too quickly. However, on my skin, I can detect the the dry down for at least a few hours. The wear time likely depends on the warmth or chemistry of your skin, as well as the sensitivity of your nose. While Gucci Première is not for those who wish to flaunt their perfumes, its lightness is not necessarily a bad thing. It's nice for those who want a scent that can be worn day or night without having to resort to something super-fresh or girly.

          Gucci Première Eau de Parfum channels the Hollywood 'Golden Girl' with a beautiful golden bottle and a startlet in a sequined dress.  It's a good scent, however, it falls short of the glamour and opulence portrayed by the iconic fragrance Dior J'Adore. J'Adore simply evokes more richness and visceral power. That said, it's tough for any perfume, Gucci Première included, to live up to a legend --- I mention it only because the presentation of Première simply begs the comparison.

          On its own, Gucci Première is a worthwhile sniff. The effervescent citrus-y champage with white florals is an everyday glamour type of scent that should garner a bevy of fans. The leather and wood base is light and adds the hint of edge suggested by Blake's Janus-like portrait above. Gucci Première is a wearable scent that can work during the day or night. It's typical Gucci, really: a splashy, flashy campaign on the outside with a pleasant and wearable fragrance inside.

          Thanks for reading! Have you tried Gucci Première? What was the last Gucci perfume you tried? Do you have a favorite 'golden' scent?

Love, Dovey.

Flower by Kenzo Eau de Parfum review

          I first sniffed Flower by Kenzo Eau de Parfum a few years ago. To be honest, the scent wasn't for me, but I was entranced by the stunning packaging: an impossibly tall glass vase with a sprightly red flower sealed within. For a long time, I assumed the red flower in Flower by Kenzo was supposed to be representative of the scent, but it turns out that the fragrance's inspiration, the poppy flower, is scentless.

          This poppy-inspired perfume features rose and violet choices that seem to draw from visual cues.  Roses share the poppy's bright, unapologetic crimson hue, while violets mirror the poppy's delicate petal structure and slim stalk. I'm a fan of florals, so I figured Flower by Kenzo might work for me the second time around. Today's sniff and scribble is devoted to my (re-)examination of Flower by Kenzo Eau de Parfum.

Notes: Parma Violet, Wild Hawthorne, Cassis, Bulgarian Rose, Vanilla, White Musk, Opoponax.

          Flower by Kenzo Eau de Parfum is a sweet and fanciful concoction of powdery violet, rose, and vanilla. The first fragrant act opens with the dense fleshiness and delicate tartness of hawthorne fruit. The choice of fruit is clever--- Hawthorne evokes the familiarity of berries, while adding the unique intrigue of an uncommon fruit. (For the record, candied hawthornes are quite scrumptious!) The fruit is quickly joined by a slowly sashaying skirt of rose, whose fragrance spreads like plumes of mist across the floor. After the hawthorne and rose dance comes to a close, cassis appears to add its dewy sweetness to the mix. Then, in the second act, enter violet! The violet doesn't have much depth, but has a significant presence in the scent. It shares the spotlight with a doughy, powdery vanilla. The combination is simple, sweet, and thick.

           After the over-indulgent opening, there's a slim silence in Flower by Kenzo--- an intermission if you will --- where the scent retracts and I can barely notice the airy whispers of vanilla, violet, and hawthorne behind the curtain. At this point, I'm lost above the clouds on a sugar high, grasping at air in hopes of finding an anchor or base to the scent. However, as with Flower by Kenzo's suspended poppy, I can't find its root. Our theoretical poppy is a clipped stem, floating, no longer connected to earth. For the final act, the doughy vanilla returns, slightly abetting the sugar rush. A white musk (read: a very light musk) is barely present and does little except to smooth things. The saving grace of the Flower by Kenzo is the very late appearance of a light opoponax; its tendrils of dark wood and incense intertwine with vanilla for a more balanced and grounded finish.

           Flower by Kenzo Eau de Parfum smells of powdery, candied violets and rose petals served with a generous drizzle of warm vanilla creme. A light, woody incense tempers the sugar high. It's a dulcet scent with a sense of innocence. That said, Flower does run the risk of coming across as too sweet. It's a bit overwhelming for me; perhaps this perfume would work better on those whose skin chemistry better enhances the opoponax base.

          Though the perfume's moniker may be Flower, it doesn't really celebrate florals. Theoretically I should have enjoyed it since I love violet and rose, but the fragrance lacks both the voluptuous character of the former and the earthiness of the latter. All in all, Flower by Kenzo ironically seems more appropriate for those who enjoy sweet gourmands rather than floral lovers like me. Perhaps this was to be expected; after all, its inspiration, the poppy, is a flower without a scent!

        Thanks for reading! Have you tried Flower by Kenzo? Do you like sweet scents? What perfumes have you been wearing lately?

Love, Dovey.

Fan di Fendi Eau de Toilette review

         I'm always on the lookout for new color cues and fresh inspiration, whether it be from the fine arts or fashion. Recently, my mom and I compared notes in one of our unofficial style powwows and found that we were both taken with Fendi's spring line! I, like many, was entranced by the starburst of colors and textures on Lagerfeld's Spring 2013 runway (see Vogue slideshow here), particularly in the coat above. My mom has been eyeing a number of Fendi handbags --- notably the 2Jours totes in red studded neoprene (see here) and colorblock form (see here). Inspired by our mutual love for Fendi this season, I'm devoting this week's sniff and scribble to Fan di Fendi Eau de Toilette!

         Fan di Fendi Eau de Toilette (2011) is the newer, fresher version of the original Fan di Fendi Eau de Parfum (2010). The platinum toned double 'F' logo on the bottle is drawn from the buckle on Fendi's classic baguette bag. The sunny yellow liquid within is evocative of Fendi's signature color as well as the character of the scent within. While the packaging is nicely done, less can be said of the advertising campaign. The Fan di Fendi ads show black and white flashes of models swept up in the moment --- like what you might see under strobe lights at a club or music video. I honestly don't see how the personified nightlife vibe translates to the scent, which is actually quite tame and fit for daytime. If you ask me, a sunny Italian terrazzo with a model dripping in Fendi accessories would have a been a much more convincing sell.

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin Orange, Pear, Green Tea, Broom Flower, Yellow Jasmine, Leather tones.
(This is the note list from the original press releases; a different modified version appears on retailer sites. From my experience, the former more accurately describes the scent.)

           Fan di Fendi Eau de Toilette smells of Italian summer --- sunshine, citrus, and, tanned leather. Fan di Fendi opens with us basking in the glow of a whole mandarin orange; it's too warm to have any zesty or bursting effect. The mandarin is quickly joined by bergamot, which contributes a bitter dimension to an otherwise simple citrus scent. After a short while, the citrus somehow fluidly transforms into a creamy pear and warm jasmine floral. It was a surprising, but delighful transition. The pear disappears and there is some silence. A tea scent pours out and crescendos in intensity; at this point it's the only thing I can smell. Then, as if evaporated by the hot sun, it retracts from whence it came.

            The last stage is all about leather. Leathers can sound intimidating or too animalistic, however the leather in Fan di Fendi is soft and approachable --- more like a stroke of suede than a heavy leather jacket. In this fragrance, leather goes through some transitions of its own. It starts out with the fresh pungency of new leather, then gains a honeyed quality, and finally softens to a very soft and smooth leather with a hint of sweetness from the opening pear and citrus. This final whisper of soft leather and fruits wears nicely for a few hours.

          Fan di Fendi Eau de Toilette is a light and sophisticated citrus scent. The two comparable scents that come to mind are Tocca Bianca Eau de Parfum and Dolce &Gabbana Light Blue Eau de Parfum. (You may notice that all three brands are Italian; though it was not intentional, I don't think it was coincidental!) I'm writing from memory here --- as I don't have these in my personal collection---, but I believe Tocca Bianca would be more similar to Fan di Fendi. Tocca Bianca shares a similar laid back feel, mandarin and bergamot opener, and contribution from tea; however it lacks leather and has a sugary lemon added to the mix. Dolce and Gabbana Light blue celebrates simple citrus and jasmine like Fan di Fendi, however it's stronger and brighter, with the added crispness of apple; the base is musk, not leather. Those who enjoy one of the above scents will likely enjoy the others as well.

         Fan di Fendi Eau de Toilette bottles the spirit of an Italian summer. (I feel relaxed just thinking about it!) The perfume smells of sunshine-ripened mandarins, lingering jasmine, and soft suede leather. It's a light and sophisticated take on citrus, that is definitely worth a sniff. Don't be apprehensive of the leather, it's easy on the nose and wears well. Overall, Fan di Fendi is a plus in my book. I love a good citrus and this was a nice foray into leathers. Grazie per la lettura! (Thanks for reading!) Have you tried Fendi perfumes? What are your favorite citrus or leather scents?

Love, Dovey.

Prada L'Eau Ambrée Eau de Parfum review

         When it comes to perfumes, there are certain product lines that I find myself visiting time and time again. It's a logical development, as a brand's scents often possesses a common character (and often common perfumer as well!) I've developed a particularly soft spot for fragrances by Prada. You might remember that my first purchase after the end of my self-imposed fragrance ban (i.e. the ban that led to my perfume 'exploration explosion' on Cute and Mundane) was Prada Infusion d'Iris. I also enjoyed a sample of Prada Candy, a deliciously playful scent (reviewed here). Prada scents are crafted with a clean and elegant purity, allowing individual notes to shine. Today's sniff and scribble features Prada L'Eau Ambrée Eau de Parfum, a scent that follows in this tradition.

        Prada L'Eau Ambrée Eau de Parfum (2009), is bottled in a squat smoky black bottle with an asymmetric gilded topper. The packaging suggests old school drama--- think old, old school, as in Greco-Roman or ancient Egyptian times --- fitting imagery considering the history of the aromatic substance. The Prada L'Eau Ambrée campaign (see below) features regally postured models ensconced in an otherworldly golden glow, shaded through a light sepia-grey that channels the spirit of ancient Egyptian bas-reliefs carved into weathered sandstone walls. It's a beautiful composition that really reflects L'Eau Ambrée's modern take on an ancient note.

Notes: Amber, Lemon, May Rose, Patchouli, Opoponax, Vanilla

          Prada L'Eau Ambrée is a scent that celebrates its namesake, amber. A supporting cast of opoponax and patchouli embellish the natural characteristics of amber, while lemon, rose, and vanilla add complimentary intrigue. Prada L'Eau Ambrée starts out strong with opopanax, then briskly decreases in intensity step by step --- as if descending the tiers of an Egyptian pyramid --- to land at a soft, warm, and smooth vanilla amber finish.

           First, a strong, almost acrid opoponax opens the scent; its dark woody, resinous, even slightly smoky scent does trail throughout the perfume and whisper at the end. Second, amidst the din, a smoky patchouli and sharp citrus clamor for attention. They have a similar intensity to, but a coolness unlike that of the opoponax. Third, the fragrance starts to become more relaxed and enlivened with hints of lemon and rose alongside amber. The lemon is beautifully mild, like the rind of a whole, uncut fruit. It adds just the right touch of freshness to an otherwise base note heavy smell.The rose is barely present, fading in and out between moments. (It should be noted that I often enjoy strong doses of the flower, so my nose may be less sensitive to it as a result). Finally, a very enjoyable warm and smooth amber with vanilla hugs the skin.

          The warmth or coolness of my skin seems to play a role in my Prada L'Eau Ambrée experience. Heat seems to kindle the woody and incense-like character of the opopanax, while cooler skin accentuates the beautiful lemon and rose tones. As you might guess, I prefer the latter. In fact, I'm feeling particularly zen writing about and wearing L'Eau Ambrée with a cool glass of lemonade in hand!

        Prada L'Eau Ambrée  has the genteel, clean palate that seems to be characteristic of Prada scents. The construction is much like that of Infusion d'Iris. Both L'Eau Ambrée and Infusion d'Iris have a smooth, almost powdery composition that is complemented by soft citrus and crisp resiny or woody notes: the former features lemon, opopanax and amber, while the latter features mandarin, cedar, and benzoin. The fragrances feel clean, without being too ephemeral or simple.

         Prada L'Eau Ambrée Eau de Parfum is a modern take on an old-world note. The perfume has a light and easy elegance that many will find easy to wear. Don't be scared by the sharp opener; L'Eau Ambrée quickly evolves into a lasting vanilla amber finish. The scent is nice for those who prefer a low key, close-to-the-skin scent that avoid the theatrics of bright, feminine top and middle notes. I would definitely recommend a sniff if you get the chance. When it comes to Prada, I'm more of an Infusion d'Iris girl, but I'll keep Prada L'Eau Ambrée in mind for the days when I need a break from my floral favorites!

        Thanks for reading! Have you tried Prada L'Eau Ambrée? What Prada perfumes have you tried? Do you enjoy amber-based scents?

Love, Dovey.

Narciso Rodriguez for her (Eau de Toilette) review

          Narciso Rodriguez is an American designer of Cuban heritage. His work is characterized by clean lines and forms expressed through a minimalist palette, an aesthetic that intimates beauty through its refreshing simplicity. (You might have caught me admiring the Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2013 runway on last week's Friday Five). I have a fondness for his line, having had a personal encounter with a gorgeous Narciso Rodriguez dress for the Allure Beauty Blogger photoshoot last year (see here). Recently, Narciso Rodriguez for her Eau de Toilette has been blipping on my perfume radar, so I thought I'd home in on this scent today.

          There have been a number of Narciso Rodriguez for her iterations, however the Eau de Toilette version is the original, dating back to 2003/2004; it is often mentioned without the 'Eau de Toilette' qualifier. The Narciso Rodriguez for her bottle is streamlined, simple, and though not particularly creative, meshes well with the scent's character. The black Eau de Toilette bottle hints at the bottom heavy fragrance inside. Current ads for the Eau de Toilette (see below) are a bit misleading, as a pink bottle is displayed at the forefront. The pink bottle is actually the newer, more floral Eau de Parfum version (Think Pink for Parfum)!

Notes: Honey flower, Solar Musk, Orange blossom, Osmanthus, Amberlyn, Vanilla, Tactile Musk, Tactile Woods, Vetiver

           In Narciso Rodriguez for her, it seems as if someone has turned off the treble and amped up the bass. Most perfumes are fruits and flowers accompanied by whispers of musk; Narciso Rodriguez for her is a velvety musk accompanied by whispers of flowers and fruits. For her opens with a savory floral honey burst, followed by a rich tea scent with a drop of orange mixed in. After a pause, amber appears to tickle my nose and is subsequently replaced by a clean wood entangled with vetiver. At the end, I reach a gentle vanilla with a hint of amber remaining. Overall, the construction seems quite linear. All the elements (honey, tea, vanilla, amber) have a similar soft and radiant warmth. Each element fades in and out before the next, much like soft pulsations. And as mentioned, musk smooths over the entire scent; it starts out soft, then crescendos at the end. Musk is the most animalistic of base notes, however the musk in for her has a synthetic feel which keeps the scent clean. Unfortunately, the final dry-down is a bit strong for me; the musk starts to have an unsavory plastic edge as it warms on my skin.

         When I sniff Narciso Rodriguez for her, I sometimes get a sense of déjà vu. Perhaps it's because the fragrance is essentially a personified version of a typical floral musk dry-down. However, Ari from Scents of Self also mentioned to me on twitter that for her is known to be quite similar to Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely.

         The juxtaposition of heavy musk with pulsating honey, tea, amber, wood, and vanilla elements give Narciso Rodriguez for her a warm, velvety, and confident touch. The streamlined simplicity of the scent reflects the brand well, however it could be called a bit monotonic (and you must like musk!). I can see how Narciso Rodriguez for her could be a signature scent. For me personally, it's a situational scent at best, as I'm prone to musk overdose and I'm fond of more vignettes in my fragrances. Thanks for reading! Have you tried Narciso Rodriguez? Is it a yea or nay? Do you like base-centric fragrances?

Love, Dovey.

Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum review

          On Valentine's Day, love is in the air, quite literally. The romantic holiday is a heyday for fragrance; one can follow the crisscrossing scent trails of women wearing the perfumes that make them feel beautiful. To celebrate this very essential component of Valentine's day, I thought I would share a fragrance review... and what better perfume could I feature than Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum?

          Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum (2005) is a perennial favorite and front-pager in beauty departments' Valentine's Day displays. It's easy to see why; the elixir inside is easy on the nose and the packaging is both creative and beautiful. Drawing from its namesake, Flowerbomb is a pink liquid packaged inside a grenade shaped bottle embellished with a black wax-seal shaped 'pin'. It exudes femininity with a pinch of edge - a perfect fusion of marketing and design. However, does the appearance reflect the scent inside?

Notes: Bergamot, Green tea, Sambac jasmine, Centifolia rose, Freesia, Cattleya orchid, Patchouli

           Judging from its bottle and moniker, I expected Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb to be a veritable explosion of fresh blooms (think a chorus of Rose, Lily, bluebells, pansies, etc. like in Alice in Wonderland's Golden Afternoon). However, Flowerbomb is actually a delicious 'floriental', with just a few choice flowers and a milky gourmand and patchouli base.

            Flowerbomb opens with a bright bergamot and tea burst that you have to be quick to catch. A light rose, with a little orchid added in for exoticism are the following act; however before they can bloom completely, the gourmand aspect of the fragrance seeps in and anchors them. The gourmand base is sweet and powdery with a little warmth. It smells almost vanilla-like, however I think somewhere between condensed milk and powdered milk would be a more apt description. There's a hefty dose of patchouli as well; normally it would be too much, but it's tempered via association with the gourmand. Sometimes I think I smell hints of chocolate, but it may be a sleight of mind due to the combination of patchouli and sweetness. Over time, the floral component transitions to a jasmine, though like the other blooms, it's grounded by the gourmand. I would say the scent is fairly steady from this point on; it wears for quite some time.

            Flowerbomb is often mentioned in the same breath as Thierry Mugler Angel (reviewed here), as both popular fragrances fall into the candied gourmand category (pioneered by the latter). They share a similar sweet gourmand base mixed with patchouli; I would say Angel's patchouli is a bit more potent. As I mentioned above, Flowerbomb has traces of a similar chocolate note that is more evident in Angel. However, Flowerbomb features a more traditional basket of powdery blooms, while Angel has a crazy cornucopia of fruits. Personally, I find Flowerbomb easier to wear.

            Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum serves up a small bouquet of fragrant florals with a milky gourmand base and patchouli. It's a concoction that should please many noses. The fragrance is delightful and feminine, however it is not the explosion of blooms that the name and packaging suggest. (Perhaps 'Femme-bomb' would have been more appropriate, though not nearly as catchy). I was slightly disappointed since I'm quite fond of pure florals, however Flowerbomb can tickle my fancy when I'm in a sweet mood. (It pairs well with my sweet or foodie bath and body products!) Thanks for reading! Have you tried Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb? Does it live up to the hype? What are your favorite 'florientals'?

Love, Dovey.

Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum review

          Today's the day I face my fears and finally write about Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum. As someone who typically enjoys light florals,  the oriental gourmand fragrance's expansive list of notes and patchouli-heavy character was certainly intimidating. However, Angel is one of those fragrances one should really experience at some point in life; after all, the perfume (created in 1992), was inducted into the FiFi Awards Hall of Fame in 2007.

             Thierry Mugler is known for crafting fragrances inspired by fantasy. Eva Mendes (seen in the photos) is the current face of the Thierry Mugler Angel campaigns, after replacing Naomi Watts in 2011. The multicolor sequined dress, the cosmic flashes of light in the shape of wings, and the sultry look of Eva herself all combine to create a sense of sensory overload that is not unlike the fragrance itself. Thierry Mugle Angel Eau de Parfum is packaged in a beautiful asymmetric star that appears stretched out, as if it's getting ready to warp into space. The star can be refilled with decants of Theirry Mugler Angel, which is eco-friendly and adds to the fancy of having a personal shooting star.

Notes: melon, coconut, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, bergamot, cotton candy, honey, apricot, blackberry, plum, orchid, peach, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, red berries, rose, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, dark chocolate, caramel.

         The Thierry Mugler Angel experience has a dreamlike character, where childhood memories are drawn out through the litany of notes. Overall, I would describe Angel as a voluptuous scent with fleshy fruits and vanilla caramel sweetness, underscored by generous helpings of dry cocoa powder and patchouli. Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum opens with dewy fruits enmeshed with a sticky candy sweetness. The fruity burst is an unusual combination of melon and tropical fruits; I get a good helping of honeydew, citrus, and coconut. Likewise, the sweetness is a full combination of the gourmand greats : vanilla, caramel, and tonka; the lot is more delectable than the sum of its parts. Over time, the fruits transition into their more dark fleshed varieties, namely plums and blackberries. As the fragrance draws out further, I get a distinct nectarine and hints of apricot. The base of the fragrance is dominated by a dry cocoa scent and patchouli that run throughout. (Angel does have a reputation of being a patchouli bomb). There are honeyed aspects as well, and a spritz of amber spice. I'm too distracted by the other scents to piece apart the floral notes, which quietly fill in the seams and add to the background ambiance. However, if I had to guess, soft jasmine, orchid, and rose are likely candidates.

         Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum is a sweet and voluptuous scent filled with a cornucopia of fruits and flowers to add intrigue. Smoky patchouli wafts up old memories, while chocolate adds comfort. I tend to prefer more straightforward scents and find Angel a bit overwhelming, but I can respect its creation; it's impressive that a fragrance can hold together so many individual scents without devolving into a stew. With so many component scents, I think each individual will experience a different emphasis dependent upon unconscious proclivities molded by memory. Though Thierry Mugler Angel is resplendent with fruits and sweet smells, I wouldn't call it childish; though it's weighty and complex, I wouldn't call it elegant. Angel is in a category of its own, and is certainly worth a sniff. Thanks for reading! Have you tried Thierry Mugler Angel? What are your thoughts? Are you a patchouli person?

Love, Dovey.

P.S.  It is worth noting that Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum should be differentiated from the Eau de Toilette version. The Eau de Toilette was launched in 2011; while it has similar notes, it is not the exact same scent!

Balenciaga L'Essence Eau de Parfum review

          Lately, I've been going through an aromatic renaissance of sorts thanks to Balenciaga perfumes. The brand first caught my nose with the release of Balenciaga Florabotanica. After that fragrant first experience, I made a point to find out what other scents of theirs I've been missing out on. Luckily, I didn't have to look far; I happened to have samples of both Balenciaga Paris and Balenciaga L'Essence in my archive of sample sleeves! Today, I'll share my thoughts on Balenciaga L'Essence Eau de Parfum, a more intense and sophisticated evolution of Balenciaga Paris. Balenciaga L'Essence is bottled in a gorgeous glass flacon with a hematite cap, pyrite collar, and green gradation. The green and black coloring hints at a scent dominated by heavy green notes (think violet leaf and vetiver, as opposed to grass).

Notes: patchouli, violet leaf, violet, green notes, sandalwood, cedar

          When I think of Balenciaga, the first thing that comes to mind is their line of popular tasseled leather handbags. Balenciaga L'Essence Eau de Parfum evokes this association for me in a complementary sense; the scent of L'Essence has a close wearing feel reminiscent of leather, but with a verdant aspect. (Which is good, because I'd rather not smell like a leather purse).

           Balenciaga L'Essence is a light and grounded combination of violet leaf, vetiver, and sandalwood. There are no real 'top' notes; the fragrance starts off at mid range with earthy violet leaf and shy violet flower. There are subtle sweet vanilla-like notes that complement the violet felicitously, bringing to mind candied violets. The base is characterized by a green vetiver, along with soft wood notes. The woods are largely composed of creamy sandalwood, with just a hint of cedar crispness to tickle the nose. Over time, Balenciaga L'Essence becomes sweeter and more vanilla-like while maintaining its violet leaf and vetiver character. While the fragrance is base note heavy, it maintains a clean and light feeling due to a lack of smoky patchouli or animal musk notes.

               Much like the brand's bohemian, yet structured bags, Balenciaga L'Essence perfume strikes a balance between earthy and clean. The combination of youthful violet leaf with vetiver and sandalwood has a straightforward elegance. I do detect L'Essence's resemblance to the original Balenciaga Paris through their shared notes; however the former is more grounded, while the latter is more floral and sweet. Overall, I've been enjoying Balenciaga L'Essence; it's a relaxing scent to wear when I'm not in a floral mood! Thanks for reading! Have you tried Balenciaga L'Essence Eau de Parfum or any other Balenciaga fragrances? Do you like vetiver or violet scents?

Love, Dovey.

Chloé Chloé Eau de Parfum review

           French fashion house Chloé was founded in 1952 by Egyptian-born Parisienne Gaby Aghion. The brand is best known for creating designs that were 'prêt-à-porter', or ready-to-wear, at a time when luxury brands were producing 'made to measure' clothing. Chloé is beloved for its clean, free-spirited, and feminine designs. Karl Lagerfeld launched the original Chloé perfume in 1975. The tuberose heavy fragrance was reformulated in 2008 into the powdery rose version of Chloé Chloé Eau de Parfum that most of us are familiar with today. The barely blush toned packaging is contrasted by a stalwart square bottle; the combination hints at the feminine, yet bold perfume that is Chloé. Chloé has an enigmatic personality; it's a signature scent for some, but a complete turn-off for others. I've spent some time investigating the polarizing nature of this perfume; here's what I discovered:

Notes: pink peony, freesia, lychee, magnolia flower, lily of the valley, rose, cedarwood, amber, honey.

            Chloé Chloé Eau de Parfum is a delightful rose scent with hints of powder, sweetness, and a surprising pungency. Chloé opens with a beautiful watery peony and rose burst that I want to hold on to forever. That moment is quickly broken up by a sharp scent that resembles the pungent aspect of lily and the woodiness of magnolia stuffed into a single note. It is the precarious intermixture of these clashing scents that rides the line between  interesting and intolerable. I think skin chemistry is a strong factor as to the sort of smell you will get.  For those lucky enough to get light amounts of lily and magnolia, the mixture will add a redolent dimension. On the pulse of my wrists, however, these elements are unbearably strong. As the scent progresses, the rose hugs a sweet lychee, resulting in a juicy floral. A light amber concurrently prickles my nose. Towards the conclusion of Chloé , there's not much development or jostling of notes. It seems as if all the notes just trail off in a gradual diminuendo. I'm left with rose, a pinch of powder, lychee sweetness, amber, and a mild amount of the contentious lily and magnolia note.

          Chloé Chloé Eau de Parfum is like a beautiful chiffon gown wrapped in a well worn leather jacket; it's a rosy floral with an edge that matches the confident and free-spirited femininity of the brand. The opening florals are beautiful, however the scent's success does depend on skin chemistry. Unfortunately it wears poorly on me, but I can see why it's well loved by others. It's a scent with potential, but I'd recommend trying before buying! Thanks for reading! Have you tried Chloé Eau de Parfum? Do you have a favorite out of Chloé's fragrance lineup?

Love, Dovey.

P.S. This month's issue of InStyle (February 2013) has a nice feature on Chloé designs. The 2004 Phoebe Philo dress is absolutely stunning!

Tocca Graciella Eau de Parfum review

             Tocca Graciella Eau de Parfum is an elixir inspired by the beauty and sophistication of Grace Kelly, 1950's movie star turned Princess of Monaco. Tocca Graciella is packaged in Tocca's classic rounded bottle topped with aged gold filigree that channels the old-world romanticism of the brand. The fragrance itself is a pale blue, which hints at the water notes in this floral fragrance.

Notes: Bitter Orange, Asian Pear, Watery Apricot, Casablanca Lily, Ylang Ylang from Comoros Islands, Karma Fleur, Rose de Mai, Cashmere Musk, Benzoin, Laos.

         Tocca Graciella is a floral musk with fruit and water notes; it's delicate but not sparkling. The fragrance opens with a clear rose paired with the warmth of ylang ylang, a truly classic combination. The rose transitions nicely into a watery pear. (Pear and rose might sound a bit unusual, but I find the combination to be quite pleasing. If you're a fan of those two notes, try Escada Especially Escada (reviewed here) which is a more full bodied rendition). The pear is short lived and gives way to the Tocca Graciella's creamy center, which is my favorite part of the scent. A soft, non-pungent, non-spicy lily perfumes and adds a touch of sophistication. I don't sense much iris; at best it's a touch of freshness. Apricot becomes the predominant fruit note. The base of Tocca Graciella is rounded out by a light musk. There might be a pinch of benzoin, but it's barely evident. As time passes, the apricot grows sweeter and more syrupy on me, much like apricot preserves. The lily trails a bit toward the end as well. Overall, I agree with the notes described in the paper sleeve above, however the sequencing was a bit different for me.

            Tocca Graciella Eau de Parfum is a graceful and easy-going floral musk. The water notes and choice of fruits add a touch of intrigue to otherwise classic floral notes. I'm particularly fond of the apricot note. As is typical of Tocca perfumes, Graciella's character differs from mainstream scents without venturing too far off the beaten path. As for its muse, Tocca Graciella seems more like an anecdote about Grace Kelly's youth, as opposed to a the full bodied elegant fragrance that might adorn a royal princess. However, the light and pretty character of Tocca Graciella make it wearable for even for those that are perfume shy. Thanks for reading! Have you tried Tocca Graciella? What are your favorite Tocca scents? What Grace Kelly films have you seen?

Love, Dovey.

P.S. Creed Fleurissimo is the actual fragrance associated with Grace Kelly, as I learned from The Non-Blonde. The tuberose, rose, iris, violet, and amber scent was commissioned by Prince Rainier III for their wedding day!

Gucci Guilty Eau de Toilette (for women) review

          Gucci Guilty Eau de Toilette suggests sensuality in every aspect of its creation. The golden bottle has Gucci's trademark interlocked G's, often likened to a belt buckle, with a glass cutout window looking inside. Plus, there's its name, Guilty, and the racy advertising campaign featuring Chris Evans and Evan Rachel Wood. It seems that Gucci Guilty means to personify the jet-set allure brought to the brand during its Tom Ford years. I was hesitant to try Gucci Guilty, as I expected it to be overly opulent; I was pleasantly surprised to find the contrary.

Notes: mandarin, pink pepper, peach, lilac, geranium, amber, patchouli

          Gucci Guilty is a warm, sensual, and light 'floriental' perfume. I would say it focuses on sweet peach, smooth lilac, and a dash of pepper for dimension. When the scent opens, I don't really experience the citrus burst that Gucci Guilty is meant to have. In fact, I don't really detect much bursting at all. The perfume begins on a warm and well blended note; it's hard to distinguish single components for the first few seconds. The first note to make itself known is a sweet peach. A light lilac runs alongside and hangs in the air, but not so much as to be cloying. The peach fades and trails into a dash of pink pepper that tickles my nose and adds dimension to an otherwise simple scent. (I believe this note is what Gucci Guilty's highly dramatized retail descriptors like 'forbidden' and 'dangerous' refer to). A hint of green geranium complements the pepper nicely. The stronger notes finally dissipate, revealing a sweet amber base with clean vanilla-like tones. The amber and patchouli are left unemphasized; you won't find much spice or smokiness at the base.

          Gucci Guilty is a smooth concoction of fruit, flower, and spice that hugs the skin. The lightness and lack of heavy base notes keeps it sensual but unobtrusive. I was surprised to find it to be such a wearable scent, considering my initial expectations. However, considering that the Gucci Guilty ad campaign is quite tame when compared to other sensationalized products (e.g. YSL Opium or Tom Ford Neroli Portofino, both by Tom Ford), perhaps that was to be expected. I'd have to say Gucci Guilty is a sheep in wolf's clothing, intimidating on the outside but soft in the inside. Thanks for reading! Have you tried Gucci Guilty? Do you have any Gucci scents in your collection? What are your favorite 'florientals'?

Love, Dovey.